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The Poor Man's Guide to Fine Wine, Issue #003 April 15, 2008 |
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Hello from the Wine Tastings Guide! This is The Poor Man's Guide to Fine Wine, a monthly newsletter on all things wine and your guide to finding great wine at affordable prices! Each issue brings you articles about goings-ons in the world of wine as well as reviews of inexpensive wines. If you like this newsletter and our website, please forward this email to someone you know who enjoys wine or wants to learn more about wine and wine tastings. If this was forwarded to you and you like what you read, you can subscribe to The Poor Man's Guide to Fine Wine for free now. If you have suggestions, questions, article requests or comments, please contact me -- I love to hear from my readers!
Contents of this issue of |
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| Zero Stars | A wine I don't particularly recommend. |
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One Star |
Well made, simple and tasty wines that I recommend. |
Two Stars |
Excellent quality. Worth an extra effort to search out and enjoy. |
![]() Three Stars |
Outstanding wine of the highest caliber. |
| + Plus |
Either a wine that is close to deserving a higher score or a wine that may not be showing that much but with the potential to move up in quality with further aging. A young wine that may be closed up or shows potential for significant improvement. Assuming it opens and improves with additional age, it may merit a higher rating. |
| ??? | Flawed bottles or wines that are difficult to assess for any number of reasons. Judgement reserved. |
| Baumard Savennières 2004 |
Drink Now -2024 |
$18 | |
It is no secret that I adore Baumard's wines. From bone dry Savennières to sticky sweet Quarts de Chaumes, their wines are pure, pristine, complex, age-worthy and just simply great. It is hard to go wrong with them even from "off" vintages. This, their basic Savennières from 2004 is a great value. They do make other Savennières bottlings which are all very good.Classic Sav Chenin Blanc aromas of sweet pear, cinnamon, apple tart and wool are all held together by a fine, delicately etched white stone minerality. The mouth is creamy, a bit waxy and with a vibrant , flinty minerality and a grapefruit pit finish. What I really love in these wines is the almost tactile sense of minerals, chalk and pit tannins. This is delicious but young. It will change and evolve beautifully for at least a couple decades. Two Stars. Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, CA. |
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| Botter Catarratto Chardonnay Roccalanna Sicilia 2005 |
Drink Now -2009 |
$8 | |
This Sicilian wine is made from 40% Chardonnay and 60% Catarratto, a grape with which I have little experience.Interesting nose that is almost more Sauvignon Blanc in character with pineapple and bright white fruits not unlike stoney pears. Lively flavors that are light and with a chalky stoniness. Light and ethereal on the palate. Very pleasant light wine for drinking in the near term. One Star. Importer: Il Nettare Divino, LLC., North Hollywood, CA. |
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| Cave de Lugny Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay 2006 |
Drink Now -2010 |
$10 | |
The Mâcon is a region in the south of Burgundy which makes mostly whites from the Chardonnay grape. Because it is not in the Côte d'Or, the most cherished part of Burgundy, the prices are generally much more reasonable.This is simply a great inexpensive food wine or apéritif. Fresh aromas of honeydew and citrus are simple and light and very inviting, like a fresh spring morning. Bright lively fruit flavors of peach, pears and citrus with good balancing acidity. Simple but alive and vibrant. Great value. One Star. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY. |
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| Domaine de l'Aujardière Éric Chevalier Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France Chardonnay 2006 |
Drink Now -2010 |
$13 | |
This is a unique wine you can tell your friends about. It is grown in the appellation of Muscadet in the western Loire Valley of France. Typically Muscadet is made of a different grape, the Melon de Bourgogne, not Chardonnay. Therefore, this wine cannot legally call itself Muscadet.This wine is one point of proof against all those who don't believe that terroir has a real impact on the character of a wine. This wine speaks much more of Muscadet than of Chardonnay! It has a Muscadet-like fragrance of honeydew melon and fresh sea air. Its flavors are crisp and lively, like honeydew juice spiked with lime, oyster shell and apple skins. Zesty and lip smacking. This is a real, vibrant wine that shows its origins on its sleeve. This would be great with raw oysters, sautéed squid or any other lighter seafood fare you can think to throw at it. One Star Plus. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA. |
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| Monsieur Marcel Gourmet Market Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Vin de Pays d'Oc |
Zero Stars | Drink Now -2009 |
$12 |
Monsieur Marcel is a gourmet market and restaurant at the Fairfax and 3rd Farmer's Market in Los Angeles. They bottle some wines for sale in their shop. Unless you are from LA you will not likely come across a bottle. But for those who do, here is a note to help you decide whether to buy or not.This Sauvignon Blanc was very lackluster. Granted, I bought it to cook with a bit, but I hoped that it would offer some nice fresh Sauv Blanc fruit. I hoped for too much. This is very flat with only a hint of recognizable gooseberry fruit and very little else. The flavors were also flat, boring and a bit flabby for a young Sauvingnon Blanc. In short, not typical and also not very good for whatever it is. I haven't tried their other Monsieur Marcel-labeled wines but I wouldn't recommend them based on this example. Zero Stars. Importer: Truwines LLC, Mission HIlls, CA. |
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| Palama Brontolo Salento Bianco NV |
??? | Drink Now | $6 |
Like the red version below, this white from Salento is super cheap, considering that it comes in a big 1 liter, screw-cap bottle. You aren't paying for looks, just a good simple food wine. Unfortunately, while I've been impressed by the red for the value, I've had hit or miss examples of the white.This bottle had notes of oxidation with an almost Sherry-like nose and a flat oxidized palate. Not undrinkable but definitely a bit off. I've had previous bottles that were better than this with bright, fresh flavors that were refreshing. However, for this bottle and the apparent bottle variation, I have reservations recommending this and would rather reserve judgement for now. Importer: Vitis Imports, Santa Monica, CA. |
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| JP & JF Quénard Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron 2005 |
Drink Now -2013 |
$15 | |
I reviewed the basic Chignin from this producer in Issue 001 of the Poor Man's Guide to Fine Wine. They are from the Savoie region of France at the foothills of the Alps, near the Swiss boarder. While the Chignin is made from 100% Jacquèrre grapes, this Chignin-Bergeron is actually the local name for Roussanne, which is grown elsewhere in France, most notably in the Southern Rhône Valley.This wine has an interesting nose reminiscent of spiced apple sauce and ripe peaches. Like most Roussanne, the mouth is rather rich, with an oily texture and apple, butterscotch and banana flavors that linger on the finish. Round and low in acid, this medium to full-bodied wine is typical for Roussanne and would make an excellent pairing for fish with cream sauces or white meat dishes. Because of the low acid, it is best served chilled to help balance the rich mouthfeel. One Star Plus. Importer: Charles Neal Selections, Richmond, CA. |
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| Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune "les Fournaux" 1er cru 2005 |
Drink 2011 -2025 |
$47 | |
This wine may not be cheap, but for a red burgundy from a fine producer it is about as close to cheap as you can get these days with the weak dollar. Unfortunately many upper level Burgundy has just gotten more and more expensive with each vintage and you practically need to be a millionaire to enjoy the better producer's premier and grand cru wines. To make it even worse, 2005 is an outstanding vintage which has received high praise elsewhere in the wine press. Therefore, prices for this fine vintage have soared even highter. Savigny, in the Côte de Beaune is a unique exception. For some reason this village has never skyrocketed in price but from a few select producers makes some outstanding red Burgs.This is a premier cru vineyard called Fournaux. The aromas are an enticing toasty oak, bacon, coffee and black fruit. A bit much oak for my taste, but I hope that will integrate with time. The flavors are stoney and meaty with a dense, hard core of concentrated dark fruits. Super young but this has a solid core of fruit that I think will hold up to long aging. This is a bit rough around the edges but I think it can evolve into something very nice but needs some time in the cellar. Two Stars. Importer: Woodland Hills Wine Co., Woodland Hills, CA. |
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| Ciù Ciù Bacchus Rosso Piceno 2006 |
Drink Now -2014 |
$12 | |
This is a rich, hearty red from Italy. It is a 50/50 blend of two grape varieties, Montepulciano and Sangiovese. This small producer makes traditionally made wines from completely organic vineyards!The nose evokes smokey pepper-crusted pancetta. Dark and black fruits for sure. The flavors are big and dark as well with big meaty, black fruits, pepper and ripe velvety tannins. Nice on its own but this really screams for a rich dish to accompany it. One Star Plus. Importer: Vitis Imports, Inglewood, CA. |
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| Koiné Primitivo di Manduria 2003 |
Drink Now -2012 |
$12 | |
From Puglia in Italy, this wine is made from the grape Primitivo. Primitivo is the Italian name of the grape which when grown in California is known as Zinfandel.Nice aromas of turned earth and black berries lead the way to brambly and earthy berry flavors with a nice herb kick in the end. Quite fruity and forward, I can see the similarity to California Zinfandel here but with a bit more spice and earth. One Star. Importer: Il Nettare Divino, LLC, North Hollywood, CA. |
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| Cuvée Sélectionnée par Kermit Lynch Côtes du Rhône 2006 |
Drink Now -2013 |
$12 | |
This is one of two Côtes du Rhône that importer Kermit Lynch had bottled for his store in the 2006 vintage (see the next wine, the Cypress Cuvée).Scents of woodsy garrigue (the Provençal underbrush and shrubs), rosemary, lavender, thyme and jammy raspberry fruit. The wine is a zesty, brambly mouthful of wild berries, earth and spice. Good depth but stays bright and lively and thus very food friendly. An excellent inexpensive southern French red. One Star. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA. |
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| Blended by Kermit Lynch Côtes du Rhône Cypress Cuvée 2006 |
Drink Now -2015 |
$14 | |
This is another of Kermit's wine selections which he had blended and bottled by a wine producer near Gigondas in the Southern Rhone valley. Because of the grove of Cypress trees in the area, he called it his Cypress Cuvée.This has a much more reserved nose of grapey black fruits that really didn't open up much even after been open for over an hour. Flavors of dark, dense, spicy black fruits are quite young and closed up. This is darker and harder than the previous wine and therefore may need more time to come around. It is a nice wine nonetheless, just not as expressive as the previous wine. For now, I give that one the slight edge since it shows so much better now. One Star. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA. |
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| Martilde Bonarda Oltrepo Pavese 2001 | Drink Now -2015 |
$12 | |
Bonarda is a grape variety that does not get much attention in the US and the wine press, but I have grown to love it. It is grown a fair amount in the northernmost parts of Italy such as the Oltrepo Pavese, where this wine is from. I find the grape to be capable of great aromatic complexity, not unlike a Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo-based wine in some ways. By the way, this little family run winery produces all organic wines, like the Ciù Ciù wine reviewed above. Also, the labels all feature paintings by one of the wine makers.A great nose of savory grilled meat, spicy fruit, earth and mushrooms. The character of the mouth is not unlike a Pinot or Nebbiolo-based wine with bright yet meaty fruit. Bright but at the same time has a dark structure with grippy tannins. This improved quite a bit with air, getting more lush and complex. The big tannins softened out nicely as well, boding well for short to medium-term aging. One Star Plus. Importer: Vitis Imports, Santa Monica, CA. |
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| Palama Brontolo Salento Rosso NV |
Drink Now | $6 | |
This red from Salento is quite a bargain. It is a stripped down, base model but serves its purpose well. It comes in a big 1 liter bottle (making the $6 seem even cheaper) with a screw cap and ugly label. Don't expect it to impress at table, but if appearances are not important to you then read on.Despite the ugly, screw-cap bottle this wine is for real. Meaty and fruity, this wine is ripe and alive like a young Beaujolais. Crunchy and chewy ripe fruit flavors are simple and fruity but so easy to drink. This is the kind of wine you can gulp if you want to. Great with a bit of a chill on a warm day to slug down with some pizza or barbeque. Simple, unassuming, real wine. It's also relatively low in alcohol so you can drink more of it! One Star. Importer: Vitis Imports, Santa Monica, CA. |
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| Pavelot Savigny-les-Beaune "la Dominode" 1er cru 2005 |
Drink 2015 -2025 |
$44 | |
As mentioned above for the Bize Savigny, this is a red Burgundy village which is still relatively inexpensive compared to other Burgundies. Pavelot is one of the few producers at the top of the appellation, producing traditional, complex, age-worthy wines from several vineyards in the village. This is a premier cru vineyard that many consider Pavelot's best, but also requiring the most age to show its best.This is showing very young today with a primary grapey dark fruit along with some herbal notes that remind me of lavender flowers and rosemary. Not aromas I typically associate with Savigny, but very pretty nonetheless. In terms of flavors, this bad boy is closed for business. It is big, hard, and quite tannic right now. I am a bit worried that this will always be fairly austere with big tannins but I am willing to give it the benefit of the doubt, but it will reward patience. Buy a couple and stick them away somewhere cool for at least a decade. If the tannins do integrate with time my score may seem conservative. Two Stars for now. Importer: Woodland Hills Wine Co., Woodland Hills, CA. |
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| Ravenswood Vintner's Blend Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 |
Drink Now -2013 |
$8 | |
Ravenswood has been making excellent wines in Sonoma since the 1970's. Their reputation was build on their single-vineyard Zinfandel which are still excellent, but the bulk of their business now is with the Vintner's Blend line of wines which can be found almost anywhere. They are best known for their inexpensive Zinfandel but they also make Cab, Merlot and Chardonnay on this label.This Vintner's Blend Cab has a rich nose of toasty cassis, bing cherry and chocolate. Rich flavors follow with black fruits, spice and a quite tannic finish. This is simple but powerful and flavorful. To really balance its finishing tannins I'd recommend drinking it with some hearty fare. A good, basic everyday Cab. One Star. |
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| Trader Moon Wine Co. Old Moon Old Vine Zin California 2006 |
Zero Stars | Drink Now | $5 |
My wife sometimes likes to buy wines solely based on the pretty label and to give the wine the benefit of the doubt. This wine was very inexpensive and can be found at Trader Joe's. I don't tend to choose my wines that way, but it's worth a shot.This was quite ripe, forward and practically flabby with its stewed, over-ripe fruit. Sweet jammy spiced red fruits in the nose lead the way to very sweet berry flavors. What I can say about it is that it is smooth, with no hard edges. But it is one dimensional, lacks grip or vibrancy of any kind and is almost medicinally sweet. If you like your Zinfandel bubble-gummy and over-ripe, then you might like this. For me, it lacked interest. No Stars. |
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| Graham's Six Grapes Reserve Porto (375ml Bottle) |
Drink Now -2010 |
$13 | |
Graham's is one of the top producers of Port in Portugal. Their vintage ports are amongst the best. This is their basic vintage character Port you can find just about everywhere. It is a blend of young Ports without a vintage.Stemmy cherry and cassis liquor aromas are spiced with cinnamon and milk chocolate. This is not a powerhouse port but has mild, sweet, tasty red fruits. Simple but smooth in texture and a balanced structure. Not a contemplative Port, but a simple tasty one which can accompany cheese or desserts well. One Star. Importer: Premium Port Wines Inc., San Francisco, CA. |
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© 2008 Poor Man's Guide to Fine Wine. All Rights Reserved.